Time
Although snook can be caught at any time of day, I catch about 95% of them at dusk and night. They become active at this time. More often than not, night is better than dusk, but the tide can change that.
Tide
The tide is one of the most important factors when snook fishing. Snook operate like a light switch. You will have no luck for a long time, and then all of the sudden, as if someone flicked an on switch, you will catch three or four in a row. When things are going great, all of the sudden, they stop biting. I believe that this is due mainly with the tides. Most snook I catch are about thirty minutes before and after a tide change, and usually high tide is the best. I find the tides using www.saltwatertides.com . It's easy to use, and seems very accurate. I will write another post about how to read the tide charts. The tides will also dictate the current.
Current
The power and direction of the current will determine the direction the snook are facing, and how active they are. When there are one tide days, the current may be very slow. The slow current will not bring in the bait fish that the snook feed on, so the snook will not be facing the proper direction. It is important to note that the snook face against the current, so the bait will be brought to them. I often see people fishing the wrong direction for them, and they wonder why they are not catching anything. Below is a drawing I did to help depict the direction of the snook. Notice the waves on top of the drawing, this is to depict some ideal weather.
Weather
From what I have noticed, snook prefer specific types of weather. I can usually walk out on to the pier and know if I will have any luck that day. I have never had luck when the water is flat like glass. The larger waves, windy weather, chop all contribute to better snook fishing. I would still try to fish even if the weather is not ideal, tonight was very low wind, no chop, small waves, and I still landed snook. Like bass, Snook prefer structure.
Structure
Snook are very structure based. They like to hide under piers, mangroves, channels in the sand, and about anywhere else that has something for them to take cover. I drew a top view of an area similar to where I fish for snook. I pointed out the locations you might catch them.
Equipment
I try to use the lightest equipment possible, so I don't get sore from throwing the lure a couple hundred times in a night. My equipment is not expensive, but it is still effective. I have a seven foot medium action Shakespeare Ugly Stick from Wal-Mart for $40.00. I am also using an open face Shakespeare reel wound with about 100 yards of thirty pound test, braided line. I use braided line because it has a much smaller diameter, doesn't stretch, and the line does not have a memory, so it does not form all of those loops when you cast it. The 30lb braided is equivalent in diameter to 6lb mono. I also use about two to three feet of a 50lb mono leader. This is because snook have a rough mouth, and could wear through the braided line. The mono also does a little better when it rubs against the pilings, as well as gives a small amount of stretch to help prevent the fish from throwing the hook. How to rig this is important.
Rig
When filling your reel with braided line, make sure to "back the reel" with some light mono test, I use 7lb. The reason is because the mono will stretch around the reel, and hold tight. I have seen people with their entire spool of line just spinning around the reel. After you lay down about 20 feet of mono, then you join the mono backing, to the 30lb braided. I use a double uni knot for this. I will write another blog on proper ways to make knots. Until then, here is a good site with some knots. http://www.fishingcairns.com.au/page6-1.html After the two lines are joined together, you spool up the line, making sure not to over fill your spool. Thread the line up the eyes of the pole, and then tie on a Black Barrel W/ Coastlock Swivel. I use size 5, I am probably way over doing it, but because there is a three foot leader, it doesn't scare the fish away. Having the swivel at the end will allow you to easily change lures if the snook don't feel like biting that specific color or style. Now I cut off about an entire arms length of 50lb mono to use as a leader. I tie one end to the lure, leaving a small loop. This will give the lure more action. At the other end I will tie a Black Barrel Swivel. I generally keep a few lures individually bagged in zip lock bags, and keep them in a waist pouch along with a pair of pliers, a camera, license, head lamp, and anything else I may need. Granted, the waist pack is not fashionable, but they are very handy. You can purchase them at bass pro, or probably at Wal-Mart. Here is a tackle box version: http://www.basspro.com/Berkley%C2%AE-Strapon-Tackle-Box/product/1560/124587
Lure
There are only a few lures I use to catch snook. The most effective ones I have found are the Bomber brand Long A, Jointed Long A, Suspending Long A, all in the 3.5in and the 4.5in. The colors I use are "Fire Tiger Bass", "Silver Flash Red Head", and "Foxy Lady". Go here and look at color schemes: http://www.bomberlures.com/longa.htm you can buy these at Wal-Mart, or Bass Pro, or about anywhere else. Another lure to note is the Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow Floating color C27 in the 5.25in size. http://www.yo-zuri.com/ They come with very strong salt water hooks. These lures are a little more expensive, usually in the $12-14 range, compared to the $2.99 range of the bombers. Another good lure to have in your bag is a top water popper for days when the water is too flat to fish in. And also some rubber lures with heavy jig heads for the days when the current is too powerful. I have also read, (but not experienced) that the biggest snook hide at the very bottom. So a slow jig across the bottom could land you a monster.
Technique
There are many techniques, but really the idea is to bring the lure in front of the snook's face, so he can pop out and hit it. For piers I like to stand above a piling. If the pilings are about 15 feet or more apart, then I give the lure a little flip to the next piling. You will be fishing on the side of the pier that the current is coming towards. Keep the rod tip pointed straight down at the water, this will allow the lure to hug the pier, and also allow the lure to dig deeper into the water. Crank as slow as you can while the lure still has a slow wobble. Occasionally give the rod tip a little twitch maybe two or three inches to make the lure dart through the water an inch or so. The current will help keep the lure close to the pier, and even take it under some. That is okay, and sometimes preferable. Try a few times, if no snook bites, then move down a piling or two, and continue this technique. When a snook hits, set the hook, and while keeping the line tight, move towards the fish so you are on top of him. Try your best to control him to keep him from wrapping around a piling. Be ready for a good fight, they hit like a truck! After he is wore out, keep just his head out of the water, so he doesn't get a second wind. If he is small, lift him over the side of the pier, or net him. If he is huge, you can try dragging him to the base of the pier, and pull him to shore. Be careful while handling snook, their gill plate is like a razor blade. Always hold them by their mouth, they don't have teeth.
I hope this was useful and informative, I look forward to your comments, suggestions, and hopefully pictures of your snook!
